Pork Loin with Root Vegetables

I generally try to cook something extra-special for Sunday dinner, and the plan for today was to do lamb shanks, braised with red wine, olives, orange zest, anchovy, and basil. Alas, Whole Foods had not a single shank, so I thought I would do a pork loin braised with celery root. The butcher wrapped up a beautiful loin, but then there was no celery root in the produce department. So, I had to settle for some other root vegetables, including a couple of carrots from the garden, some parsnips, a leek, and a few ribs of tired celery from the vegetable bin. After browning the meat and then the vegetables, I added a bay leaf and some tomato paste, cooked for a bit, and then added two cups of red wine and chicken stock. The secret ingredient was a tablespoon and a half of dried, powdered porcini mushrooms. The meat went back into the pot, which went into a 325 degree oven for two hours. It was about perfect with mashed potatoes, at least in the middle of October.

Fresh Tomato Pasta

Damn, fresh tomatoes are tasty. I made the cover recipe in the August Martha Stewart Living, a pasta with fresh heirloom tomatoes (from the garden) and various other good things, and I decided to go whole hog and make some fresh pasta. I generally don't think that fresh pasta adds much, if anything, to any dish except for lasagna, but this was heaven. (I used a recipe from Craig Claiborne's New York Times Cookbook. It has two ingredients, 1 3/4 cups of semolina flour and 3 eggs.) We had the pasta with a chicken that I roasted on the charcoal grill, and I don't think that I could have asked for much more. I think that even Martha would have approved.

Summertime

We had a friend over for Sunday dinner the other night, and I was very proud that all of the vegetables came from the garden. Eggplant, squash, potatoes, onions, herbs; it was all from a four block radius. Of course, when he saw the grilled steaks, he asked when I had started keeping a cow. At least he didn't ask where I did the butchering. 

But the garden is going great guns now. We are getting quite a few tomatoes, we are still eating potatoes and onions, the okra are getting ready to bloom, little green beans have appeared on the vines, and squash, cucumbers and eggplant are blooming like mad. Actually, and somewhat bizarrely, we have already harvested quite a few eggplant. Until last year I had never had any luck at all, but now, for the second year in a row, we have almost more than we need or want.

Of course, there have been some miscues. I tried fava beans, and they were a complete bust. All of the blossoms turned black and fell off. Not exactly a good sign. My guess is that I planted them too late. Next year they will go in when I put in the sugar snaps, potatoes, and onions. And speaking of potatoes, the yellow Finns had a pretty disappointing yield. Next year I'll just plant the fingerlings and use the freed-up space for the fava beans.

One of the big surprises this year is the fennel. I planted oodles of it in the midst of the tomatoes, since I had read that they were a good intercropping pair. I have used it in a variety of things, including a version of a roasted fish recipe that was in the New York Times Magazine a few weeks ago. The recipe called for layering potatoes, onions, and tomatoes, which were baked before a whole fish was roasted on top. This was before the tomatoes started bearing, so I substituted sliced fennel instead, and it was delicious. The recipe called for black sea bass, but I substituted local rockfish, which was on sale at Whole Foods. In all honesty, I didn't really get the timing down right on the fish, so I will need to try again. I think that the main problem was that the fish was enormous, and I was worried about overcooking it. Dry fish is never a good thing. I guess this is just another area where I need to get a little more experience.

Beijing Spring Break

Glen and I went to Beijing for spring break this year. It was perhaps a little foolish to go so far for only a bit over a week, but United Airlines has a non-stop Washington to Beijing flight, and I was able to book with miles, which made it seem reasonable. The jet-lag is on the other side of the ledger, but one doesn't really know about that until after the trip.

Neither of us had been to mainland China before. I have been through Hong Kong a couple of times, but that is really different. I was impressed, though, with how relatively easy it is for a Westerner to visit Beijing. Clearly they are set up for us. It was very easy to get around in the excellent subway, and many signs and other resources are provided in English.

I was a little derelict as far as food and restaurant research goes, so we pretty much made it up as we went along. There were some hits and some misses. One of our favorite dinners was at a place in the Gui Jie (Ghost Street), where they do the Sichuan hot pot. The idea is that you have a bubbling pot of broth in which you cook your dinner yourself, using the meats, vegetables, and noodles that are available. This restaurant offers the option of having both the super-spicy broth and a chicken broth in the same pot, separated by a divider. Wanting to hedge our bets, we opted for this, and both were really tasty, as were the tahini and garlic-oil dipping sauces.

After visiting Prince Gong's mansion one morning, we stopped for lunch at Chengdu, a restaurant in Lotus Lane that had the most beautifully presented food. We had a salad made of chicken braised in xiaoxing wine, served with pomegranate seeds on a bed of crushed ice, some pork spare ribs that were glazed in a plum-lemon sauce, and lotus root cooked with a variety of mushrooms. Everything was gorgeous, and the restaurant offered nice views overlooking Houhai Lake, not far from the Forbidden City. This was clearly a hopping part of town, with lots of bars, restaurants, and clubs, even reggae!

One thing that really struck me was how much the Beijingers seemed to enjoy their food. In just about every restaurant we went, every table was covered with more dishes than the diners could hope to finish, though they made a valiant attempt. The era of state-run restaurants must have been miserable! After struggling with the menu at one restaurant, we told the waitress just to bring all of the dishes that the neighboring table had ordered. It was delicious, but there was no way we could finish it all.

One thing we didn't really experience much of was street food. It seemed that there was never anything that looked very good when we were hungry. I did have the candied hawthorne apples that you see everywhere a couple of times, and Glen braved a kefir-like drink in a little brown ceramic crock that just about every food stall seemed to offer, but neither of us had deep-fried scorpions or pork intestines or any of the other things that you see. I guess that will be on the next trip.

The most interesting food experience we had actually involved a home-cooked meal. While shopping, we popped into a little shop that was full of Yixing teapots, which are made of a special porous clay. After drinking much tea, and receiving a demonstration of the Chinese tea ceremony, and the purchase of two teapots, the proprietor invited us to share the lunch that her uncle had prepared. I'm not entirely sure what we ate, but it was a fun experience, and I wasn't really all that enthusiastic about trying the donkey meat restaurant that was around the corner.

Seared Scallops with Cauliflower Puree and Quinoa Pilaf

I wish that I could have spent some time in the garden today, but the weather did not cooperate. It rained last night and this morning, so I think it would have been too wet. Instead, I did laundry, cooked some, and lamented that the Congress got its act together and agreed on a budget, which means that I won't get Monday off. I was kind of looking forward to a government shut-down.

I have been wanting to try the cinnamon-raisin bread in Bread Baker's Apprentice, so I went ahead and tackled that project. I just had a couple of toasted slices as my dessert, and it was really delicious. I do need to work on shaping uniform loaves, though, even if it still tastes wickedly good.

For dinner I made the menu referenced in the title to this post. It seem like I have been seeing lots of seared scallops and cauliflower puree on restaurant menus, so I decided to try my own version. I roasted half of a fennel bulb in olive oil with a few cloves of garlic, letting them caramelize nicely. While that was underway, I steamed about half of a head of cauliflower (this was just for Glen and me, so I decided to save half of the head for something else) until it was tender. I also toasted some fennel seeds, grains of paradise (peppercorns would be a fine substitute), and coriander seeds. Once toasted, I ground all of the spices in a spice grinder and used them to season the cauliflower and fennel, which I pureed in the food processor with some butter and a dash of cream. I seasoned the puree with salt and added a bit of lemon juice, just to brighten the flavor.

We had the puree with some seared sea scallops, and I also made a quinoa pilaf with carrots, asparagus, and red onion, all dressed with a vinaigrette I made from olive oil, a fig-infused white balsamic vinegar, and a touch of Dijon mustard. The only downside of the whole meal was the rather bland appearance of the scallops and puree; I think I needed some parsley. A little garnish can go a long way. Fortunately, the taste was anything but bland.

Polenta with Zucchini Carpaccio and Roasted Peppers and Onions

The dinner in the adjacent picture was supposed to be pork chops, but I ended up not making it to Whole Foods after work. As a result, we were virtuous and ate some of the vegetables in the bin.

Polenta with Zucchini Carpaccio and Roasted Peppers and Onions

Halve and core two red peppers, and cut into fat strips. Similarly slice a red onion, and place with the peppers in a roasting pan or, even better, a cast iron skillet. Drizzle with ample olive oil, and add salt and pepper. Roast in a 375 degree oven for about 30 minutes or so, until vegetables are soft and starting to brown a bit. Meanwhile, thinly slice one medium zucchini lengthwise. Spread the slices in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and brush both sides with olive oil. Lightly salt and pepper. Put zucchini in the oven when the peppers still have about ten minutes to go. The zucchini are done when they are nice and tender.

While the vegetables finish cooking, julienne a good handful of basil leaves, and mince one clove of garlic. After taking the peppers out of the oven, stir in the garlic, and pop back into the oven for a minute or so, just to take the bite off. After taking them out of the over, toss the peppers with the basil, and drizzle with some balsamic vinegar.

Meanwhile, prepare soft polenta. (I typically use quick-cooking polenta, which is done in just a couple of minutes.) If available, stir some mascarpone cheese into the polenta.

When ready to serve, put soft polenta into bowls, drape zucchini slices over, and top with roasted peppers and onions. Add a grating of parmesan, if desired. Some toasted pine nuts would also be good.

We did end up having the pork chops last night, coated in powdered porcini mushrooms, pan-seared and then roasted for 15 minutes. They were delicious with pureed garbanzo beans, which were scented with cumin and Spanish smoked paprika, and oven roasted asparagus with a squeeze of Meyer lemon juice. But that menu was probably a little less virtuous.

It has been a long while since I have posted, but that doesn't mean that I haven't been cooking or gardening. Short ribs, lamb shoulder chops, various uses of quinoa, grilled asparagus, a refrigerator-emptying soup, and all sorts of other things have come and gone, and I haven't written a word about them. And then there is all of the activity in the garden. Potatoes, onions, and peas planted, grasses cut back, and all the rest. I think that this is my busiest time of year. I have even found myself wishing for a Federal government shutdown, just so that I could have a week or so to make some progress on my "to do" list. There are several painting projects, for example. Indoor and outdoor, it seems like we just have a boatload of painting to do. It reminds me of a story I read once about the family firm that is in charge of painting the Bay Bridge in San Francisco Bay. They start at one end and work their way across the bay. By the time they finish, it is time to start back in on the other end.

So I was off today, even though it was a Monday, because I had to work on Friday, which was my normal day off. I only finished about half of the things on my list, but I did accomplish a few kitchen goals. I made three loaves of pain de campagne, which is the variety I have been struggling to perfect. I think that I did the best job with the dough that I have done so far, but shaping the loaves is still a bit of a challenge. Hopefully practice will eventually make perfect. Today I did one boule and two batards. We had part of the boule for dinner, and it was undeniably tasty. Perhaps next time I will just do three boules, and really try to get them right.

Along with the bread we had an asparagus and ham tart. I essentially adpated a recipe from the Greens restaurant cookbook. They have a basic recipe for tart dough for a 9 inch tart. Since I have a 10 inch pan, and since I have always found their recipe to be a little skimpy, I just increased it by a factor of one third, which was about right. Their dough uses one cup of regular flour, which I supplemented with a third of a cup of whole wheat flour. I thought that really worked. For the filling I sauteed a giant sliced leek in olive oil, blanched some asparagus for 3 minutes, diced some ham, and grated about 2/3 of a cup of Gruyere cheese. The custard included 3 eggs, 1 1/2 cups of light cream, some salt and white pepper, and some fresh thyme. After prebaking the crust, I layered in the cheese first, then the leek, then the ham and asparagus before pouring in the custard. It spend about 45 minutes in a 375 degree oven.

I opened a 2009 Linden Rose wine to have with the tart, and it was delicious. I want to get out there to buy another case of wine, but I wanted to try everything we bought on the last trip so that I would know what we wanted. In truth, comparable French and Spanish wines are available for quite a bit less money, but I still like the idea of drinking locally.

Winter Into Spring

It was 38 degrees outside when I left for work this morning at 7:25 am, and 31 degrees when I left the office at 5:30 pm.  It felt even colder, too, because of the strong wind.  Over the weekend it seemed like spring might be just around the corner. The sun shone warm, and I even saw a few crocuses starting to poke their way out. Just the hint of the change of seasons motivated me to order seeds, potatoes, onions plants, and a few other odds and ends. I want to be ready when it is time to garden. But then the cold blew back into town. It didn't get me down, though, because the days are longer, and I know that a change is in the air.

It won't be long before I want to cook differently, but comfort food still feels right. I made some lamb shanks over the weekend, seared and then braised in red wine with root vegetables, and perfumed by bay leaves, herbes de Provence, some anchovy and tomato pastes, and orange peel. I had the last one for lunch today, with the rich gravy, and it was pretty delicious. Sure beats Quiznos. I think that I will try those again soon, adding some black olives towards the end of the braise. We had the lamb with polenta and some fresh bread that I had made, a pain de campagne from Bread Baker's Apprentice. The bread was fine, but I would like to make the same recipe again next weekend. I think that there might be room for improvement. I really, really want to make Peter Reinhart's cinnamon-raisin bread, though, and I might do it, since we will have some house guests to feed.

Tonight I made a risotto that incorporated some parsnips that I didn't need for the lamb. I diced them small and sauteed them with two sliced leeks in butter and olive oil along with a bit of rosemary, before adding the arborio rice. I also soaked some porcini mushrooms, and I added the soaking liquid to the risotto, along with white wine and chicken stock. I then chopped the mushrooms and added them towards the end, and I finished with Parmesan cheese and a couple of tablespoons of cream, along with some salt and pepper. We had the risotto with some sauteed spinach, which made for a perfectly satisfying weeknight dinner.

Pane Siciliano

It is very cold in DC this weekend, so baking bread was definitely the appropriate thing to do.  I decided to try the Pane Siciliano, which is a semolina bread, from The Bread Baker's Apprentice.  I have always liked using some semolina flour in pizza dough, so I had a good feeling about this recipe.  Technically, this is a three day bread, but I am cheating a little bit.  I made the starter last night, let it ferment overnight, and then got up early, made the dough, let it rise, and formed the three loaves.  Peter Reinhart, the author of BBA, is a big advocate of letting bread dough spend a full overnight in the refrigerator, to allow time for the biology to fully play out and develop the maximum flavor.  In this case, I decided to experiment.  I let one loaf do its final rise immediately after shaping, and then I baked it.  The other two loaves are still in the refrigerator, but I think that I will take them out after about 8 hours, let them finish their rise, and then bake them.  Then the next time I make this bread I will let the dough have its full overnight rest in the refrigerator.  I did taste the immediate-rise bread, and it was fine, though nothing particularly spectacular.

One thing that appeals to me about this bread is the S-shape.  This is created by forming the dough into a 24-inch baguette, and then rolling each end in opposite directions until the bread is formed into a compact package.  I was a little worried about the aesthetics of my loaves, but the dough was pretty easy to work with.

Since we have the fresh bread, I am just going to make some simple braised chicken thighs with vegetables.  Something broth-y seems like the right accompaniment for the bread.  Overall this hasn't been a very remarkable food week, though I did do something earlier in the week that I like doing in the winter.  It involves halving and steaming Brussels sprouts, and then tossing them into a pan of caramelized onions and sliced kielbasa sausage.  I added some whole grain Dijon mustard directly to the pan, and then served with some mashed potatoes, which I had dressed up with sour cream instead of butter.  Very delicious!

January Droops

T.S. Eliot notwithstanding, I think that January is the cruelest month.  No more anticipation of the holidays, just the cleanup and credit card statements.  The coldest and snowiest months staring us in the face.  The inevitable colds and flus.  No herbs growing in the backyard.  And the darkness.  I wonder how anyone avoids seasonal affective disorder (aka SAD).

I tried to snap myself out of the droops by baking some bread.  Now, I have never been a gifted baker, but I received The Bread Baker's Apprentice as a Christmas present, and that has inspired me to work on bread this year.  I started today with a very simple dough, for a bread that Peter Reinhart, the author, calls pain à l'ancienne.  He thinks that it makes the best baguettes in Paris.  Who am I to argue?  I made four mini-baguettes, set aside two balls of dough for pizza tomorrow, and baked and froze two ciabatta-style loaves for later this week.  I'm sure my baguettes are not the best in Washington, but they had a very nice crust, and they made excellent sandwiches with some ham, aged Gruyère, and mustard.  It will be a nice project for 2011 to learn how to make some decent breads.